Ramadan Days

If you arrive in Marrakesh during Ramadan you will find that publicly life goes on pretty much as normal. In tourist areas the restaurants, cafes and shops will still be open serving food and drink as normal – but spare a thought for your poor waiter who has been working all day without food or drink.

People are generally quieter – especially as Ramadan is entering its final week now and everyone is feeling tired. You might find tempers fray at little more easily towards the end of the day especially for the smokers who have to bear the nicotine craving at least till sunset and f’tar (breakfast).

There are some differences though. Some shops may close in the afternoon, opening again in the evening once breakfast is over. Restaurants catering purely for Moroccans usually close completely during Ramadan, as no one eats during the day and families eat together at night. You might also find that many public offices will be closed for most of Friday afternoon for prayers.

Public transport is also affected – both before and during Ramadan. Moroccans tend not to travel far during Ramadan. Although you are exempt from fasting if are travelling, most people will try to keep to the fast. They will arrange trips to relatives so that they arrive before Ramadan starts or after the end. This means that just before Ramadan buses and trains will be exceptionally busy and even more chaotic than usual – and probably best avoided.

During Ramadan don’t expect to travel at sunset; everyone else is just fixated on eating. There will also be a big rush on taxis and buses just before sunset as every tries to get home in time in time for breakfast.

I think, for a tourist, the strangest part of Ramadan is what happens at sunset. As soon as the call is heard announcing the end of the fast the streets quickly empty as everyone races home to be ready for breakfast. Away from the buzz of tourist areas you will find yourself walking through empty and silent streets where the only passers-by are more tourists puzzling about what happened to everyone.