Eid al Fitr

At last we have reached the end of Ramadan... well almost. We are still waiting to find out exactly when the fasting can stop (ie when the new moon is officially sighted) but it has to be sometime this weekend.

Wednesday night was the “Night of Power” when people go to the mosque and spend the night in prayer, reciting the Koran. This is believed to be the night when the first sections of the Koran were revealed to Mohamed and so is the holiest night of the year. As Mohamed did not actually give the date of his revelations no one can be 100% sure about when the “Night of Power” actually occurs though it is known be one of the odd numbered days in the last 10 days of Ramadan. In Morocco most authorities have settled on the 27^th night of Ramadan. Special grace is bestowed on those who make the prayers... and, I am sure, to the ladies who send their best plates of couscous to the mosque to help sustain those staying up all night.

In a way the end of Ramadan is a bit like the end of the year (even though it is the 9^th month of the calendar). People emerge from Ramadan feeling renewed physically and spiritually, with their sins washed away and also having reflected on their behaviour and life - that is, of course, assuming that they have behaved during Ramadan as they should have!

Already everyone is excited about the Eid. Souks and shops have been extra busy as people have stocked up (again) with special food for the feasting that follows Ramadan. It is customary to have new clothes to wear for the Eid and to give gifts to children. So the clothes and toy shops are doing a roaring trade. Homes are also given a major clean and this is the time for redecoration and maybe new furniture.

The Eid celebrations start with community prayer. These are usually held outside the local mosques (as too many people arrive for everyone to fit inside). The services are usually kept quite short and then everyone rushes home to eat – in daylight! After this neighbours and family visit and eat and visit and eat, culminating in a big family meal in the evening.

The Eid al F’tir is also the time when Moroccans share their good fortune by giving food or money to people in need. Everyone who is able is expected to give around 2kg of flour or dates – or the financial equivalent - and this gift must be given before the end of the Eid prayer. The money and food collected is distributed by the mosque.

I have been told that the weather is always good on the Eid as our reward for fasting. Good weather in Moroccan terms is cool and overcast... and possibly even rainy! This would indeed be a blessing on this hot and dry country. Though this year I doubt residents in Rabat and Casa, who suffered huge disruption to their lives when torrential rain caused flooding this week, would agree.

Ramadan Nights

Visitors to Morocco might be concerned that World War III has broken out when the wail of the air raid siren rends the evening air. But not to worry, it is just signalling the end of fasting. Any Moroccans not already safe indoors will be seen rushing off home for breakfast.

During Ramadan all Muslims have to refrain from eating and drinking (among other things) between sunrise and sunset. So you can imagine there is a fair amount of clockwatching goes on towards the end of the afternoon, and great relief when the call comes from the mosque that it is time for breakfast.

Traditionally harira (soup thickened with chickpeas, lentils and pasta) with dates and chebekia (pastries cooked with honey and spices) is served to break the fast along with other tasty morsels, followed quickly by a small snack - often bread and fish - and then later in the evening by dinner. Sometimes dinner is delayed till round midnight and in some families the women stay up and cook couscous or tagines for the family to eat in the early morning, before fasting begins.

In the big cities you will find that the bustle that was missing during the day makes an appearance during the evenings. After breakfast many families come out for an evening stroll in the streets, shopping and enjoying the sights and of course eating (and eating and eating).

Generally though, Ramadan is a time for staying home with family, sharing meals and sitting watching the special TV shows that most of the Arabic stations put on. The best part of the family gatherings is the sitting round and telling stories. Moroccans love stories of magic, witches and demons, comic stories of people pulling a fast one on their less agile neighbours but above all they are fond of riddles. Everyone from the youngest to the oldest will chip in with their favourite and watch while everyone scratches their head trying to solve it. But no matter how late they stay up telling stories, they always somehow manage to get up in time to eat and drink before break of day – ready for another day of fasting.

Ramadan Days

If you arrive in Marrakesh during Ramadan you will find that publicly life goes on pretty much as normal. In tourist areas the restaurants, cafes and shops will still be open serving food and drink as normal – but spare a thought for your poor waiter who has been working all day without food or drink.

People are generally quieter – especially as Ramadan is entering its final week now and everyone is feeling tired. You might find tempers fray at little more easily towards the end of the day especially for the smokers who have to bear the nicotine craving at least till sunset and f’tar (breakfast).

There are some differences though. Some shops may close in the afternoon, opening again in the evening once breakfast is over. Restaurants catering purely for Moroccans usually close completely during Ramadan, as no one eats during the day and families eat together at night. You might also find that many public offices will be closed for most of Friday afternoon for prayers.

Public transport is also affected – both before and during Ramadan. Moroccans tend not to travel far during Ramadan. Although you are exempt from fasting if are travelling, most people will try to keep to the fast. They will arrange trips to relatives so that they arrive before Ramadan starts or after the end. This means that just before Ramadan buses and trains will be exceptionally busy and even more chaotic than usual – and probably best avoided.

During Ramadan don’t expect to travel at sunset; everyone else is just fixated on eating. There will also be a big rush on taxis and buses just before sunset as every tries to get home in time in time for breakfast.

I think, for a tourist, the strangest part of Ramadan is what happens at sunset. As soon as the call is heard announcing the end of the fast the streets quickly empty as everyone races home to be ready for breakfast. Away from the buzz of tourist areas you will find yourself walking through empty and silent streets where the only passers-by are more tourists puzzling about what happened to everyone.