Saturday, 11 July 2009

Marrakesh, the Red City, pearl of the south, ancient and exotic.

Marrakesh was founded in the 11th century to profit from its position on a high plain in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains. A welcome stopping off point for traders at the northern end of the Salt Route from Timbuktu, Marrakesh became the capital city for the fabulously wealthy Almoravid dynasty (the Moors who defeated El Cid). And, after nearly a millennium, it is still a vibrant centre for trade and for travellers.

Marrakesh has the beating heart of a great city and it is in the heart that it takes you. I first came to Marrakesh four years ago, just for a short Christmas break and fell in love almost as soon as my feet touched the ground. We spent the customary few days wondering around the souks and palaces, and joining the evening crowds in the Djema el Fna. One morning we found ourselves accompanied by a man who asked us if we would like to look at carpets. I replied that “I would rather look at houses”, partly in the hope that this would deflect him and partly because the idea of living here had been growing in me. Of course this was not a problem and, after looking at carpets, we looked at houses. To cut a long story short (and you will hear the long story eventually), within a year I found myself owning a house in the medina of Marrakesh.

Marrakesh is like Morocco, ancient and alive, exciting, bewildering, old, ugly and beautiful..... and very likely to cast a spell on you. If you need to be in control, for things to happen at the appointed time, if you would rather that things went smoothly or not at all – then Morocco is not for you. But if you still get a thrill from the unexpected and the beautiful, can laugh when you stumble and still have curiosity about what is round the next corner, then maybe Morocco will delight you. There is no point struggling to keep your head – just surrender. You will get lost, you will buy something that you don’t really need and you will probably pay more than you could have.... but you might as well just accept that and enjoy the experience. In time you will get wiser, you will learn to navigate the narrow twisting streets of the souks and you will get to know the price of things as well as their value. I hope that this blog will help you in that process.

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